For centuries, Black women have shaped the fashion industry, often without recognition. Their creativity, skill, and resilience have influenced everything from high fashion to streetwear. As we celebrate Black History Month, let’s take a journey through history to honor the Black women who have left their mark on fashion.
The Legacy of Black Dressmakers
Before Black women were recognized as designers, they were seamstresses and dressmakers; roles passed down from their enslaved ancestors. During slavery, Black women worked in cotton fields, harvested materials, and learned to dye fabrics. Their craftsmanship was unmatched, and they created intricate garments, often with limited resources.
After slavery ended, many Black women became dressmakers for high society. Though they were called seamstresses, they were true fashion pioneers. They designed for the elite, including politicians' wives and entertainers, and their work laid the foundation for future Black designers.
Black Women Who Dressed Society’s Elite
- Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley
The First Black Woman Fashion Designer in The White House. Keckley was a former enslaved woman who became Mary Todd Lincoln’s personal dressmaker. She used her earnings to support newly freed Black people after the Civil War.
- Fannie Criss Payne:
A self-taught dressmaker who designed for Virginia’s high society in the early 1900s.
- Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes:
The first Black woman to own a boutique on Broadway in New York. She dressed Hollywood stars and designed the first Playboy Bunny costume.
- Ann Cole Lowe:
Perhaps the most famous of them all, Lowe designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding gown in 1953. Though her work was stunning, she was never credited at the time. Her legacy now shines as one of the greatest Black designers in history.
Streetwear
The impact of Black women on fashion goes beyond couture. Streetwear, one of the most dominant styles today, was shaped by Black culture. The oversized hoodies, baggy jeans, sneakers, and bold accessories we see in mainstream fashion started in Black communities.
One of the key figures in bringing streetwear to the mainstream is June Ambrose. As a celebrity stylist, she worked with hip-hop artists in the ‘90s and early 2000s, helping to define the look that now dominates urban fashion. Today, major brands profit from trends that Black women have been setting for decades.
Fashion in the Civil Rights Era
Fashion has always been a statement of identity and resistance. In the 1960s, during the Civil Rights Movement, Black fashion became a symbol of pride and strength.
Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity for the Virginia Commonwealth University School of the Arts, explains how the Black Panthers’ all-black outfits, leather jackets, and afros influenced not just Black fashion but high fashion as well.
“As 'Black is beautiful' becomes extremely popular, it transcends into fashion and into how people want to dress and how people want to look,” Alford said. “We really see that being evident, particularly in the late ‘60s and the ‘70s.”
The dashiki, a brightly colored garment of West African origin, became a popular symbol of Black pride. This era proved that fashion was not just about looking good but about making a statement and demanding change.
Leading the Way in Sustainable Fashion
Black women have always been at the forefront of sustainable fashion, long before it became a trend. Historically, Black communities have practiced sustainable habits: mending clothes, reusing fabrics, and making the most out of what they had.
Today, Black designers continue to lead the charge in eco-friendly fashion,
As we celebrate Black History Month, let’s recognize the women who have paved the way. They are more than just designers; they are storytellers, culture shapers, and history makers. And their legacy will continue to inspire generations to come.